This article originally appeared in Blue Magazine, written by Cotton Diaries team members Ani Wells and Anne Oudard.

People often ask us if regenerative cotton is better than organic or conventional, hoping for a simple yes or no. But as with most questions we get, the answer is rarely that black and white. Most people see regenerative cotton as another carbon capture method or certification to check off their score card, wondering if it is better than the other. But this mindset encourages a very narrow view of what regenerative cotton truly represents and can mean. Only focussing on one specific result is like standing in a forest and only noticing the trees. You miss the entire interconnected system and the border purpose of the forest as a whole.

So what is regenerative agriculture?

Regenerative agriculture is a holistic, place-based, outcome-focused, systems approach to farming that works in harmony with natural ecosystems, prioritizing the resilience and interconnection of the environment and human communities. Rooted in Indigenous and Native practices, it emphasizes ecological health, social justice, and localized solutions rather than a one-size-fits-all checklist. Certified organic practices can often serve as a strong foundation for regenerative efforts, but regenerative agriculture goes beyond certifications, valuing practices that restore balance, increase soil health and enhance ecosystems / biodiversity (Textile Exchange).

The key terms we want to underscore are place-based and outcome-focussed so we can create holistic systems that work for the context one is operating in. The practices used on one regenerative cotton farm in India may look completely different from one in Turkey because they are tailored to the unique environmental, social and cultural context of each region. In India, the focus might be on soil restoration through intercropping and traditional seed preservation, while in Turkey, it could emphasize managing water resources and pest resilience in a semi-arid climate. This is why we must focus on the outcomes of regenerative farming and not only the set of tactics we’ve been told ARE “regenerative agriculture” (like cover crops, no till, animal grazing, etc…) This shift away from focusing solely on tools and tactics allows regenerative agriculture to be flexible, adaptive, and ultimately transformative.

Back in June, we visited Nihan’s farm in Adana, Turkiye, when the cotton plants were just beginning to grow. Our goal was to better understand her journey, what improvements she’s striving for, which practices she’s experimented with, what techniques have succeeded or fallen short, and, ultimately, what she plans to refine and build upon for the next season.

So what does regenerative mean exactly in Nihan’s case?

Ani+Anne: When we came to see you last June, we saw wheat leftovers all over your cotton fields. Can you explain their purpose and how you monitor the soil moisture in the summer?

Nihan: After the wheat harvest, the soil temperature reaches an ideal level for cotton planting. The soil temperature is approximately between 15-20°C, which helps cotton seeds germinate quickly. Considering June, soil moisture is usually not sufficient for germination, so we address this issue by using sprinkler irrigation to ensure the soil reaches its ideal moisture level.

Ani+Anne: The other thing that we noticed was that you hadn’t tilled your field. Was this challenging to grow cotton without tilling? Was it worth it?

Nihan: Not tilling for two years while planting cotton has been challenging for us, as we noticed some seeds had germination problems. However, this did not outweigh the benefits for our soil health. We will continue planting without tillage this year because we recognize its importance for soil health. We find it fascinating that by avoiding tillage, the natural biological processes in the soil can continue undisturbed.

Ani+Anne: You said you prefer manual weeding to using synthetic herbicides. Can you explain the pros and cons of both practices? 

Nihan: Weed control is the most challenging part for us. Managing weeds through manual methods requires a lot of labor and is costly. For a 200-decare (20-hectare) field, we employ around 30 workers per month for weed management. Using pesticides provides a seasonal solution for weeds and reduces labor costs, but it also leads to problems like groundwater contamination and soil toxicity. Since soil health is important to us, pesticide use is a secondary option, and we prefer not to use them.

Ani+Anne: You told us that Chrysoperla carnea and Ladybugs were “good bugs”. What does it mean and how do you keep them around? 

Nihan: Seeing Chrysoperla carnea and Ladybugs in our fields is truly amazing. As the name suggests, ladybugs are considered a symbol of good luck. They naturally eliminate pests like aphids by feeding on them. Since we do not use pesticides, ladybugs thrive naturally in our fields. We also ensure minimal chemical pesticide use in our surroundings to create a favorable habitat for them.

Ani+Anne: We spoke a lot about how you have to feed the soil so that the soil can feed the plant. Can you explain what kind of fertilizers you use in your fields? 

Nihan: We have used organic fertilizers such as poultry manure and composted animal manure. We believe they increase organic matter content in the soil and lead to positive developments over the years, so we will continue using and monitoring them.

Ani+Anne: Were you able to witness the increase in organic matter in the soil? 

Nihan: Organic matter is crucial because it supports the life and health of biological organisms in the soil, leading to positive developments. Increasing organic matter is a long-term project. While we haven't seen a significant difference in our measurements yet, we can observe visible improvements in the soil.

Ani+Anne: How do you know if a plant has enough of the right nutrients in it?

Nihan: We conduct weekly leaf analyses to monitor the nutrient activity within the plant.

Ani+Anne: We remember you explaining that even if the soil is high in phosphorus, for example, the plant might not be. Can you explain how compost tea helps the plant break down the nutrients for better absorption? 

Nihan:  Compost tea acts as a soil-specific solution that helps make free-floating elements in the soil available for plant uptake. It promotes healthier and more resilient plants.

Regenerative agriculture isn’t a fixed set of practices, it’s a way of working with the land that adapts to its specific needs for restorative outcomes. Nihan’s experience highlights that what works in one place may not work in another, and success is measured by long-term outcomes rather than a checklist of techniques. By prioritizing soil health, biodiversity, and ecosystem resilience, regenerative farming creates a system that can sustain itself over time. The key is to focus on what the land needs, experiment, refine, and adapt, because true regeneration is about continuous learning and lasting impact.

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